San Sebastián, Spain

Why San Sebastián

San Sebastián (Donostia in Basque) is the strongest argument that the best things in Spain aren’t all in the south. Tucked into the Bay of Biscay just 20km from the French border, it’s a city that revolves around two things: food and the sea. The pintxo bar scene in the Parte Vieja is genuinely one of the world’s great culinary experiences — you can eat a dozen different dishes from a dozen different bars in a single evening, all within a few hundred metres, all for the price of a mediocre dinner elsewhere.

But San Sebastián is more than food. The physical setting is extraordinary — Playa de la Concha is an almost absurdly beautiful city beach, and the green hills rising on either side of the bay give the whole city a sense of enclosure and intimacy. The Basque culture here is distinct from the rest of Spain: different language, different traditions, different politics. There’s a pride of place that you feel in everything from the architecture to the way people talk about their neighbourhood bar. It’s small enough to walk everywhere, sophisticated enough to never feel provincial.

When to Visit

Summer (June–September) is the best time — the weather is warm, the beaches are swimmable, and the city hosts major festivals including the San Sebastián International Film Festival in September. It rains more here than in the rest of Spain, so come prepared even in summer. Autumn and spring are beautiful but unpredictable; winter is quiet and grey but the food scene never sleeps.

Getting There

San Sebastián’s airport (EAS) is tiny with limited flights. Most visitors fly into Bilbao (BIO), about 1 hour away by bus or car. The bus service between the two cities runs every 30 minutes. You can also reach San Sebastián by train from Madrid (5–6 hours) or by bus from Bordeaux, France (2.5 hours).

Where to Base Yourself

Parte Vieja (Old Town) is the obvious choice — you’re steps from the pintxo bars, La Concha beach, and the harbour. It’s small and walkable. Gros (across the river from the old town) is a great alternative if you want a slightly younger, more local feel — it’s the surfing neighbourhood with excellent casual dining. Centro / Área Romántica has the most elegant hotels and is centrally positioned between both beaches.